The Soldati family procured the estate that would become la Scola at the conclusion of the First World War and to this day the estate is run by descendants of the Soldati family. I’m always curious to dig a little deeper into the nomenclature of a winery’s name, and La Scolca reportedly comes from the colloquial ‘sfurca’, or looking forward into the distance. It would be poetic to say it’s reflective of a forward looking wine style, but in honesty it’s due a farmhouse location.
The Cortese grape is not the most well known varietal, but certainly within Piedmont the Rovereto’s Gavi is widely acknowledged as some of the finest examples. Alas before this slides inexorably into a dry manuscript of the region and its history, this was an exploration into an unusual topic.. what does aged Cortese taste like? How do the flavours of this less common noble grape fare in comparison with the old favourites? Without further ado, onto the wine.
Gavi La Scolca
Pale straw colour in the glass. Delicate if austere initially in the glass. Well rounded acidity. Fresh and lively if perhaps without the greatest complexity. I likened it to the jovial barber that you have a quick catchup with. Friendly, approachable and consistent.
Gavi Etichetta Nera, ‘Black Label’ DOCG
Made from much more mature vine stocks (hand picked clusters, vineyards >60yrs of age). I know, I know, I shouldn’t judge a wine by its label, but I have and I did. It looks like a much more premium item here. Oyster green lip mussel tinge to the meniscus in the glass, with a common hay/straw colour to the body. Nose has more power here. We’ve not added a turbocharger, but there are more cylinders firing in unison. White flowers giving way to a more nutty profile. Almonds? Acidity in check but present and correct. Pleasingly long finish.
Gavi 2007 D’Antan
So to answer the question that none of you asked, but my curiosity led me to answer, what does a 10yr+ Gavi evolve into? Well, first it’s important to bear in mind the context. Low yields, steep slopes.. lots of care. Decade in the cellars (from the impassioned adjectives in Chiara’s voice, one really does get the sense if the wine asked for a bedtime story it would get two..) Temperature was key with this wine.. give it some space. I found it really hit its stride around 40 minutes after opening. If the Black Label had the cylinders, this was like the Spinal Tap moment .. but.. like a great Fleetwood Mac record, volume up to 11 a generation ago. It’s mellowed a bit now. It’s still got the long hair, but it has the knowing smile of having done it all - and is now ready to enjoy its years. Toasted nuts, flint, some white fruit.. but think risotto level nuttiness. Acidity still holds it own but the star is the almost waxy layer of aromas and textures in the glass. Complex, intricate, beguiling.
So, does Cortese age? Well, with the right care and attention it most certainly does.
Next time you’re tempted with those white truffles from Alba at this time of year, be sure to consider this as the accompaniment as well the usual fare from Puligny. As a side, I’d also highly rate Batar from Querciabella in the similar league for Italian top tier whites as a rival to those from Bourgogne.
Thank you to Chiara for her enthusiasm and level of detail she shared with her winemaking approach.
